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waldo8403
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Posted: Tue Nov 14th, 2006 01:05 am |
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| I have found that railings can be drawn without any sketching! Zoom in, then line up your cursor with the edge of your ramp/stair, slowly move your cursor 3 snaps from the edge you started on. It will draw a 2" wide railing that's 2 inches from the edge, perfect 4" encroachment. Then for the length start at the top riser, draw it until you get to the last riser, look at the length of the railing in the info box on the bottom of the screen and then go 12' further, then pan back to the top of the stair and move/adjust that end and look again to the info box and stretch it 12". Another trick I learned is when you are drawing a return handrail, go past the end four snaps and stop, then go back 1 snap and out 1 snap and you will be ready to follow tip #1 above.
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archjake
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| Joined: | Wed Aug 4th, 2004 |
| Location: | Architect - Tucson, Arizona |
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Posted: Tue Nov 14th, 2006 02:51 am |
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| wow! someone has been practicing!
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H2K
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Posted: Tue Nov 14th, 2006 04:15 pm |
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| yes I've also used the three snaps method and found it very fast, I still have a small 4" square on the side that I move around after I'm done to confirm that I did things right..
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ELLE
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Posted: Fri Nov 17th, 2006 05:46 pm |
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I learned is when you are drawing a return handrail, go past the end four snaps and stop, then go back 1 snap and out 1 snap and you will be ready to follow tip #1 above.
I don't get that part.
Thanks.
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Rio
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| Joined: | Fri Jul 29th, 2005 |
| Location: | Dago |
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Posted: Tue Dec 5th, 2006 04:57 am |
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Do you think it's okay to hold the handrails so the end is 3" from the wall rather than 4"? I'm thinking of doing this as a safety factor on the 4" encroachment but am concerned that there might be not enough room for a hand to fit around the handrail and thus the placement at 2" off the wall.
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stugs
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| Location: | Norfolk, Virginia USA |
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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2006 06:25 pm |
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Rio wrote: Do you think it's okay to hold the handrails so the end is 3" from the wall rather than 4"? I'm thinking of doing this as a safety factor on the 4" encroachment but am concerned that there might be not enough room for a hand to fit around the handrail and thus the placement at 2" off the wall.
No. The minimum distance a handrail can be from the wall is 1 1/2".
The vignettes are designed to allow for the full width required for the stair. If you end up short on space somewhere it won't be a matter of an inch, it will be more substantial. In this case you would need to look for a different layout that does fit.
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Rio
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Posted: Thu Dec 7th, 2006 06:55 pm |
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Thanks Stugs. I'll go with the 4" total from the wall.
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gnrbernstein
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Posted: Tue Dec 26th, 2006 05:49 pm |
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ELLE wrote: I learned is when you are drawing a return handrail, go past the end four snaps and stop, then go back 1 snap and out 1 snap and you will be ready to follow tip #1 above.
I don't get that part.
Thanks.
I learned is when you are drawing a return handrail, continue drawing the first handrail past the end of the stair four snaps and stop. To draw the connecting handrail, move the mouse back 1 snap and out in front 1 snap and you will be ready to click and follow tip #1 above.
The connection method depends on how you draw your connections. I drew my handrails such that the connection started in the centerline of the first handrail. Some people like to have them abut. It's much quicker to draw if they cross though since all you do is finish one and click to start the next.
~gnr~
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architran
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Posted: Wed Dec 27th, 2006 03:18 am |
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| Thank you very much for initiating this whole discussion about drawing rails. The tips are super helpful!
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ARE slave
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Posted: Wed Jan 10th, 2007 05:18 pm |
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I think it is important to remember that holding the handrail 4" off the wall is only required at the WALL. and at the landings it can be shown flush to the edge.
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cambium
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Posted: Thu Jan 18th, 2007 04:28 am |
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Im confused, there is or there is not a way when drawing hand rails to turn them at right angles and have them drawn looking continuous? Am I just being impatient so all of my handrails look like they are broken parts laying overlaping on one another?
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Rio
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Posted: Thu Jan 18th, 2007 05:16 am |
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There is no way to make them look smooth and continuous. Review the posts and the subject is covered extensively
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stugs
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| Joined: | Mon Jul 17th, 2006 |
| Location: | Norfolk, Virginia USA |
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Posted: Thu Jan 18th, 2007 07:43 pm |
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| Here are your options for handrails. As long as they are touching they are considered continuous. Attachment: RailOpts.pdf (Downloaded 3810 times)
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cambium
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Posted: Fri Jan 19th, 2007 03:51 pm |
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Thank you very much for the pdf. i thought i was just being impatient.
Sometimes i think my work in the real world gets in the way of these exams, where i spend all day making things align and look pretty and follow the grid, etc.etc.
so from what i gather the handrail at the landings can be along the edge of the landing becuase basically its then a gardrail, so one can grip around the railing without any interruptions.
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stugs
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Posted: Sat Jan 20th, 2007 08:25 pm |
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cambium wrote: Thank you very much for the pdf. i thought i was just being impatient.
Sometimes i think my work in the real world gets in the way of these exams, where i spend all day making things align and look pretty and follow the grid, etc.etc. It's ridiculous that these tests are so far off of what is practiced in the real world.
so from what i gather the handrail at the landings can be along the edge of the landing becuase basically its then a gardrail, so one can grip around the railing without any interruptions. Yes, at open sides of landings you could draw the railings even with the edge of the landing, but be wary of doing this if you are working with concrete w/0 angle iron or some other edge material to receive the posts because there needs to be enough cover to prevent spalling.
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DonDiego
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| Joined: | Sat May 6th, 2006 |
| Location: | Architect, Chicago, Illinois USA |
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Posted: Sat Feb 24th, 2007 04:10 am |
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| Please be careful there... I did this on two computers, practicing at home and office, two different screen sizes and resolutions!!!..... and sure thing it snaps to 6" instead of 4" total distance from the edge of stair when I measured it.
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TheDude
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| Joined: | Mon Feb 26th, 2007 |
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Posted: Wed Feb 28th, 2007 01:04 pm |
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When zoomed in, the program snaps to single inches... the difference between computers is how big the snap is when zoomed out.
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JAM...
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Posted: Mon Mar 5th, 2007 06:03 pm |
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Thanks for the tip. This saved me time on the exam!
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rambo1
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Posted: Sun Apr 29th, 2007 12:01 am |
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| stugs you seem to know your stuff. Can you take a look at the ramp i just posted. I am not sure I'm drawing the railings correct. Thanks.
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stugs
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Posted: Mon Apr 30th, 2007 11:45 pm |
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Rambo - Your railings look fine. I made a couple of comments, but it looked like you already had some good comments from other forum members. I would be more than happy to look at any post you have, just send me a private message with a link to your post.
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Marchie
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Posted: Sun Jul 8th, 2007 05:48 pm |
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| THANK YOU!
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pihcho
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Posted: Thu Oct 4th, 2007 03:33 pm |
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| I just want to confirm this method works great, and saves valuable time. Thanks Waldo8403!!!! The trick is to zoom in close, so you can actually see the "clicks". Last edited on Thu Oct 4th, 2007 03:33 pm by pihcho
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Redcoat
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Posted: Mon Oct 8th, 2007 08:58 pm |
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| USE THIS TRICK!
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brooks
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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2007 05:48 pm |
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| I need to try this again. Are the rails supposed to 'heal'? I keep ending up with something that looks like work I would reject in the field.
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stugs
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Posted: Thu Oct 11th, 2007 11:05 pm |
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brooks wrote: I need to try this again. Are the rails supposed to 'heal'? I keep ending up with something that looks like work I would reject in the field.
The railings must appear continuous. They may overlap or abut, whichever is easier for you. See attached diagram of acceptable intersection railings.
Be sure to run guardrails into handrails wherever they touch.
Attachment: RailOpts.pdf (Downloaded 901 times)
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brooks
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Posted: Mon Oct 15th, 2007 05:28 pm |
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Thanks.
I have to keep beating myself over the head to resist the temptation to design on these. It would be nice if the program would at least let me draw my solution well. 
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stugs
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Posted: Mon Oct 15th, 2007 06:19 pm |
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Think of the drawings as schematic. This really isn't about drafting, it's about understanding the core skills required by Architects, and meticulously following directions.
Best of Luck!
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mts
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Posted: Tue Nov 13th, 2007 05:23 pm |
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Hello,
Excellent tip! I'm having trouble with the move/adjust tool. What the trick?
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stugs
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Posted: Fri Nov 23rd, 2007 12:54 pm |
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| It may just be your computer or mouse that is hindering your use of the Move/Adjust feature. Try zooming in to get more accurate results. Don't be surprised if you can't get your dimensions to snap to the exact measurement; it's normal to be an inch off. Just make your drawing as accurate as possible and if you can't draw perfectly, just do your best.
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shearbolt
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Posted: Mon Dec 10th, 2007 04:14 am |
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waldo8403 wrote: I have found that railings can be drawn without any sketching! Zoom in, then line up your cursor with the edge of your ramp/stair, slowly move your cursor 3 snaps from the edge you started on. It will draw a 2" wide railing that's 2 inches from the edge, perfect 4" encroachment. Then for the length start at the top riser, draw it until you get to the last riser, look at the length of the railing in the info box on the bottom of the screen and then go 12' further, then pan back to the top of the stair and move/adjust that end and look again to the info box and stretch it 12". Another trick I learned is when you are drawing a return handrail, go past the end four snaps and stop, then go back 1 snap and out 1 snap and you will be ready to follow tip #1 above.
thanks for the tip.........it worked like a dream on the exam
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connski
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Posted: Wed Dec 12th, 2007 10:21 pm |
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For the sake of argument, in 1975 I went to work for architect Dale Farr in Portland, Oregon with a BA concentration in sculpture and over the years learned much about architecture at the drafting tables of employers in Portland, San Francisco, Honolulu, NYC and Santa Fe. While taking my MArch in 1999, my fellow students admired my hand -drawing of a bridge for structures class, prompting the professor to make the gratifying comment that it was clearly the work of a professional. I am kind of amazed that the NCARB graphics divisions require so much work just to master the software. Today, most test takers know some kind of CAD. Yet we all struggle with this clunky software. Back in the pencil and paper days, graphics division testers didn't have to relearn their media. Maybe sometime NCARB can work with Autodesk or Nemetschek to develop a simplified version of their software for these tests - at least then licensure candidates could work with a useful and perhaps familiar tool when practicing.
Any comments?
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knobs
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Posted: Thu Dec 13th, 2007 12:09 am |
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work with autodesk...yikes
I think they way they have it now is fair, everyone has to learn something new. just like a pencil, everyone knew it, it was a level playing field.
After you spend anytime with NCARB flashcad it becomes super easy. I don't understand how anyone could not pick it up.
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knobs
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